Much more than just grain stores

Architecture and Heritage - Comments -

HÓRREOS OF GALICIA

Traditional architecture, landscape and memory

Juan Carlos Asorey photography - ho-rreos_de_galicia_23-ts20260812095533653048.jpgThe hórreo of Ozón (Muxía), one of the longest in Galicia, brings together many of the qualities that make these structures one of the great symbols of Galician vernacular architecture. 

Few elements are as closely associated with the Galician landscape as hórreos. Scattered among villages, towns, manor houses, monasteries and farmsteads, they have been part of Galicia's history for centuries and are among the finest examples of its traditional architecture.

They were originally built to store and preserve crops, but over time they also became a symbol of rural Galicia. Today they remain part of the landscape, recalling a way of life closely connected to the land, the climate and the use of natural resources.


A living heritage

For decades, hórreos have formed part of Galicia's cultural heritage as protected immovable ethnographic assets under the Galician Cultural Heritage Act.

In 2026, they received a new form of recognition when the hórreos of northern Spain were declared a Representative Manifestation of Intangible Cultural Heritage. A decision by the Spanish Government that also highlights the knowledge, traditional crafts and uses associated with them in Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, León and the Basque Country.

In the end, a hórreo tells us much more than the story of a particular building. It speaks of the people who built it, the families who used it and a way of life that has left a deep mark on the Galician landscape.

In this feature I look at some of Galicia's best-known hórreos, as well as others that are less widely known. Each has its own story, and together they help us understand an important part of Galicia's history.

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Hórreo at Pazo de Xerlís (A Estrada, Pontevedra)

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Hórreo belonging to a small manor house in the municipality of Vedra (A Coruña)


Much more than grain stores

Before modern storage systems became widespread, keeping grain safely for several months was essential to the survival of rural families. The hórreo emerged from precisely this need.

Its structure allowed air to circulate freely between wooden boards or through openings in the walls, helping to ventilate the crops. Raising the storage chamber above ground level also reduced moisture and made it harder for rodents and other animals to reach the food.

Although maize is the crop most readily associated with hórreos, they were also used to store wheat, rye, beans, pulses, chestnuts, walnuts and other agricultural products, depending on the area and the period. 

Even today, it is not unusual to find them being used for similar purposes: drying chestnuts, storing tools or keeping small harvests for household consumption. In some places they remain part of everyday rural life, even though they no longer play the role they once did.

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A country of many ways of building

Although they all served the same basic purpose, there is no single model of Galician hórreo. Over the centuries, each area developed its own solutions according to the climate, the materials available, traditional farming practices and even the layout of the houses.

The best-known image is that of a hórreo raised on stone pillars topped with tornarratos, elements designed to improve ventilation and make it harder for rodents to reach the stored crops. But this is far from the only type found in Galicia.

Many hórreos rest on continuous transverse stone supports that divide the lower part into several open spaces. Each of these spaces is known as a claro, a term commonly used to describe and even measure the length of a hórreo according to the number of claros it has.

Over time, new ways of building also appeared. In many inland areas, hórreos built with brick, blocks or concrete are common, supported by continuous structures that make it possible to use the space underneath as storage, a woodshed or an auxiliary room.

In other areas, such as the Costa da Morte, hórreos can be found incorporated into small agricultural enclosures or built on top of other auxiliary structures. Some were also built over entrance gateways to houses, with access provided by side stairways in order to make the most of the available space.

In the eastern mountain ranges, such as Os Ancares, more compact models predominate, usually with a square floor plan. Wood is combined with slate, which is abundant in the area, and until a few decades ago many of them still had rye-straw roofs, well suited to the mountain climate.

This variety can also be seen in the names used for them. Depending on the area of Galicia, terms such as cabazo, cabaceiro or canastro can be found. They all refer to the same basic idea: preserving food while taking advantage of natural ventilation. In some cases they also identify small constructional differences, although their meaning and use vary from one area to another.

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Hórreos with slate and thatched roofs in Piornedo (Cervantes, Lugo)

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Hórreo in Siador (Silleda, Pontevedra) and a hórreo in Vilarxubín (A Pontenova, Lugo)


Galicia's great hórreos

When talking about Galicia's largest hórreos, the first name that usually comes to mind is Carnota (34 m.). Its monumental scale, excellent state of preservation and designation as a National Monument have made it, quite rightly, the best-known hórreo in Galicia. It is also probably the finest example of the so-called Fisterrán type, characteristic of the Atlantic coast.

This is why the term "largest" needs some qualification. The hórreo of Araño (37,5 m.), in Rianxo, is currently the longest in Galicia and in the world. Its structure also has an unusual feature: it rests on a continuous stone base rather than on separate pillars, as is the case with most traditional hórreos.

Very close to Carnota stands the hórreo of Lira (36,53 m.), another outstanding example of Galician vernacular architecture. It is longer than the one in Carnota and adds to the remarkable concentration of monumental hórreos along Galicia's western coast.

The hórreo of the Monastery of San Xoán de Poio (33,46 m.), meanwhile, has the largest surface area and interior volume in Galicia thanks to its exceptional width and the 51 feet of stone that support it. It is a good reminder that length is not always the best way to measure the scale of these structures.

The hórreo of Ozón (27,3 m), in Muxía, also deserves a special mention. It is another of Galicia's longest hórreos and one of the great references of traditional architecture in the Costa da Morte.

And, as a native of Estrada, I mustn’t forget to mention the either Hórreo de Ribela (22,2 m.). Beyond its impressive dimensions, it stands out because of its advanced state of deterioration. Its conservation remains one of the major outstanding challenges facing Galicia's ethnographic heritage.

It´s common to find large granaries associated with monasteries, manor houses and stately estates, where their greater storage capacity responded to the needs of larger agricultural holdings.

Each of these hórreos has its own story. Some stand out for their size, others for their architecture, their historical value or the need to ensure their survival. Together, they help explain why hórreos are among the most valuable expressions of Galician vernacular architecture.

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The hórreo of Araño seen from outside the grounds where it is situated (Rianxo, A Coruña)

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Side detail of the hórreo at the Monastery of San Xoán de Poio (Pontevedra)

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Hórreo of Ozón (Muxía, A Coruña)

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Hórreo of Ribela (A Estrada, Pontevedra)


Groups of hórreos 

In some parts of Galicia, particularly where numerous farms existed side by side, hórreos stopped appearing as isolated structures and began to form larger groups.

These are known as eiras de hórreos, spaces where several hórreos stand together within the same setting. Beyond their visual appeal, they are an excellent example of how rural communities organised and shared their surroundings.

The largest concentration of hórreos can be found in A Merca (Ourense), where 34 structures stand together. Other groups, such as those in Combarro, A Eira da Hermida and Imo, also help us understand the importance these buildings once had in the everyday life of Galician villages and towns, turning these places into open-air museums.

Each hórreo retains its own character, but together they create a scene that is difficult to find elsewhere in the world.

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Eira da Hermida (Cerdedo-Cotobade, Pontevedra)

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Eira da lavandeira of Imo (Dodro, A Coruña )

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Combarro (Pontevedra), with some of its hórreos in the foreground


The hórreo of Fincheira: when a community defends its heritage 

Some hórreos stand out because of their size. Others because of their architecture. But in some cases, their greatest value lies in the story behind them.

This is the case of the hórreo of Fincheira, in Rianxo, known for having belonged to Castelao's father, Mariano Rodríguez Deus.

Over the years, the hórreo became a symbol of the parish's collective memory. When its survival was threatened, the response from the local community was remarkable. Popular mobilisation prevented its disappearance and helped secure its conservation, turning it into an example of how community involvement can help protect heritage.

Beyond its connection with Castelao, the hórreo of Fincheira reminds us that heritage is not preserved by laws and public authorities alone. It also survives because there are people willing to defend it when it is at risk.

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Hórreo of Fincheira, now sadly blending into Rianxo's urban surroundings


A very special hórreo

We all have places that form part of our memories. In my case, one of them is the hórreo at my mother's family home.

One of my earliest memories is very specific. There were several traditional beehives beneath it. For a while, only one remained occupied, until one day the swarm flew away and never returned. Over the years, that space was simply used to store small pieces of firewood, a small example of how hórreos also adapted to the changing realities of rural life.

Some time later, the hórreo was barely used except for drying a few walnuts or chestnuts. With my mother's permission, I decided to tidy it up and turn it into my own little cabin. I spent many hours there reading, playing with a friend, or simply watching what was happening around the house.

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Family's hórreo


Did you know...?

● The word hórreo comes from the Latin horreum, meaning a storehouse used to preserve cereals and other food.

● There are thousands of hórreos in Galicia, although it is difficult to establish an exact number because of the enormous variety of types and the continued discovery and cataloguing of new examples.

● The characteristic tornarratos, placed between the supports and the storage chamber, take their name from their role in making it difficult for rodents to reach the crops.

● The orientation and location of hórreos were not chosen at random. Prevailing winds were taken into account to improve natural ventilation and prevent moisture from building up.

● The cross and pinnacle found on many hórreos have a strong symbolic value. In addition to their decorative function, they have traditionally been interpreted as protective elements for the harvest.

● Galicia is one of the European territories with the highest concentration of this type of traditional architecture.

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Hórreo in the Costa da Morte 

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Lower part of the hórreo of Ozón, where the tornarratos can be clearly seen


Photographing to preserve

Every hórreo is different. Materials, proportions, construction details and even the way they fit into the landscape vary from one to another. Yet they all share something important: they are witnesses to a way of life that explains much of Galicia's history.

When I photograph a hórreo, I am not simply looking to document a traditional building. I am interested in understanding how it relates to the landscape, the village and the people who built and used it over generations.

Perhaps that is one of the great strengths of heritage photography: it encourages us to look more closely at things that, because they are so familiar and part of everyday life, we sometimes stop noticing.

The hórreos featured in this report are only a small sample of the extraordinary richness of this heritage. Scattered throughout villages, settlements and towns across Galicia, there are thousands of them, each with its own history, character and relationship with its surroundings. Photographing them all would be impossible... and, at the same time, that is precisely what makes discovering them so fascinating.


Photographs: Juan Carlos Asorey

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