Serra da Enciña da Lastra: a different Galicia
Limestone landscapes, small villages and the Sil Valley in one of Galicia’s lesser-known natural parks.
A distinctive corner of eastern Galicia
At the eastern edge of the province of Ourense, in the municipality of Rubiá and very close to the border with León, lies Serra da Enciña da Lastra Natural Park. It may be one of Galicia’s lesser-known natural areas, but a drive along some of its roads is enough to reveal a landscape very different from those we are used to seeing in other parts of the region.
Here, the terrain is shaped by limestone, dramatic rocky outcrops and slopes that follow the course of the River Sil. The vegetation is equally distinctive. Holm oaks, strawberry trees, chestnuts and Mediterranean-type scrub grow together in an area that, at times, feels closer to other parts of the Iberian Peninsula than to the landscape most commonly associated with Galicia.
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Designated a natural park in 2002, this protected area is home to remarkable natural features, from its plant life to the variety of birds that find shelter among the cliffs and rock formations. It is also dotted with small villages that retain much of their rural character and offer some beautiful views across the Sil Valley.
My recent visit was a first introduction to this area. Along the way, I discovered places worth exploring at an unhurried pace, taking time to notice the details and the views that appear along the road.
Biobra, the starting point
Let's begin the route in Biobra, a small village in the municipality of Rubiá where the Natural Park Visitor Centre is located. It is a good place to get your bearings and learn a little more about the area before continuing your visit.
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The village streets offer a glimpse of traditional local architecture and a way of life closely connected to the countryside. The surrounding hillsides and mountains hint at what lies ahead: uneven terrain, exposed rock and vegetation that changes with the aspect and conditions of the land.
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The area around Biobra also offers good views over the neighbouring valleys. It is a first encounter with a landscape that becomes increasingly dramatic as you approach the River Sil.
Covas and the Peñarrubia reservoir
One of the places that caught my attention most was Covas. The village lies among rocky slopes beside the Peñarrubia reservoir, where the waters of the Sil are held back, creating a landscape in which water, vegetation and stone seem to fit naturally together.
One of its most distinctive features is the village cemetery, set in a privileged location with views across part of this landscape. Its setting is striking, closely connected to the shape of the land and the views it offers over the surrounding area.
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Very close to the cemetery stands a century-old holm oak, one of the area's notable trees. Its presence adds another point of interest to this corner, where native vegetation, rocky formations and open views come together to create a landscape of great beauty.
Another place worth stopping to look at is Covas railway station, situated beside the reservoir. The railway infrastructure brings a different element to an environment dominated by nature, the mountains and cliffs surrounding the valley complete a scene with a strong visual impact.
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There are several places in the area from which to admire the reservoir and the Sil Valley. They are good spots to pause, watch how the light changes across the slopes and pay attention to the shapes of the rock, so characteristic of this part of the park.
Vilar de Silva and the views from Miradoiro da Cruz
Continuing along the route, we reach Vilar de Silva, a village that has retained its rural character and sits within a particularly rugged landscape. Houses, paths and cultivated plots occupy small spaces between the slopes, adapting to the terrain.
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Another highlight is Miradoiro da Cruz, a viewpoint offering wide-ranging views over the Peñarrubia reservoir and the rocky formations that follow the course of the Sil. From here, the contrast between the stone cliffs, vegetation-covered slopes and the surface of the water becomes especially clear.
Views like this help explain what makes Enciña da Lastra so distinctive. The terrain takes centre stage here, shaping both the landscape and the location of the villages and the paths that connect them.
Pardollán, between the mountains and the valley
Pardollán is another small village worth discovering within the park. Its surroundings reveal more of the combination of rural settlements, rocky slopes and vegetation that characterises much of this area.
Nearby stands the chapel of Santo Estevo de Pardollán. I did not manage to visit it, as time was limited and access was not easy, but its presence adds to the interest of the area. It is a reminder that these mountains and valleys have also been inhabited and travelled through for centuries, with local communities leaving their own heritage behind.
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The village tavern deserves a special mention. It is one of the few places in the area where you can stop for a cold drink — or something warm, depending on the time of year — at a modest price. Surrounded by mountains and slopes covered with holm oaks, I enjoyed a break in a particularly welcoming atmosphere. What especially caught my attention was the collection of old black-and-white photographs on display inside, showing people from the village and offering a glimpse into its collective memory.
The kindness and hospitality of the people of Pardollán made the visit feel complete, leaving me with a very special memory of this place.
Other villages across the mountain range
The route can be extended with a visit to other places in the park, such as O Robledo da Lastra, Oulego, O Porto and O Real. These small villages, scattered throughout the area, offer further insight into the relationship between people and the landscape.
Each has its own character, but they share a human scale and a close relationship with their surroundings. This is especially interesting in an area where the terrain has such a strong influence on everyday life. Cultivated land, chestnut groves, paths and traditional buildings all form part of a landscape that has changed over time without entirely losing its rural identity.
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A natural environment unlike the Galicia we usually imagine
The distinctive character of Serra da Enciña da Lastra is also reflected in its flora and fauna. Holm oaks are among its most representative species, alongside strawberry trees, cork oaks, chestnuts and Mediterranean scrub, where aromatic plants such as thyme and French lavender can be found. The limestone soils also support numerous species of wild orchids.
One of the most remarkable plants is Petrocoptis grandiflora, an endemic species associated with the limestone formations of this area and considered endangered in Galicia. It grows in cracks and on ledges in the rocky outcrops, adapted to very specific conditions. Its restricted distribution makes it one of the most notable examples of the park’s botanical richness.
The cliffs and rocky walls also provide shelter for a diverse bird community. Among the most notable species are the golden eagle, the Egyptian vulture, the peregrine falcon and the Eurasian eagle-owl, which find suitable places to live and breed in these rugged surroundings. The variety of habitats also supports other birds associated with rocky terrain, as well as species linked to woodland and Mediterranean scrub.
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The natural richness of Enciña da Lastra extends beyond its plants and birds. The park is also home to a remarkable diversity of butterflies, with more than a hundred species recorded, some of them very rare in Galicia.
The area is also notable for its many natural caves, known locally as palas, which shelter colonies of bats. Alongside them, other mammals, reptiles and amphibians contribute to the biodiversity of this landscape.
The combination of limestone, climate, vegetation and terrain makes Enciña da Lastra an exceptional natural area in the Galician context. Beyond the views from its roads and viewpoints, it holds a wealth of nature that deserves to be discovered and protected.
Photographing the landscape and the places that inhabit it
Visiting Serra da Enciña da Lastra gave me the opportunity to discover a part of Galicia that was still unfamiliar to me. The views over the Peñarrubia reservoir, the rocky formations, the small villages and the details of the vegetation create a varied landscape in which every place has something of its own.
When photographing these places, I am interested both in the landscape as a whole and in the details that help explain it: a village tucked into a hillside, a tree that has been growing in the same place for decades, or a building that seems to belong to the terrain.
This photo essay captures only a small part of what the park has to offer, but it is an invitation to visit, explore at a relaxed pace and discover a landscape that deserves far more attention than it often receives.
There is also a Galicia of limestone, towering cliffs and Mediterranean vegetation. And Serra da Enciña da Lastra is one of the best places to discover it.
Photographs: © Juan Carlos Asorey